What to Check When Buying a Used Car: The Complete UK Checklist

Updated 22 October 2026.

Buying a used car can save you thousands compared with buying new, but only if you know what to check. A car can look perfect at a viewing and still be stolen, written off, clocked or on finance. This guide sets out what to check when buying a used car, step by step: before you view it, the questions to ask the seller, what to look for at the viewing and on the test drive, and what to do before you hand over any money.

Used car checklist: the short version

1. Run a free car check on the registration and make sure the make, model, colour, MOT and tax match the advert.
2. Ask the seller the key questions before you travel (below).
3. Run a full car history check for stolen, write-off, finance and mileage records.
4. Check the V5C logbook: the seller’s name and address, and the VIN and registration against the car.
5. Look over the bodywork, tyres, engine and electrics, starting the engine from cold.
6. Take a proper test drive, insured, on different kinds of road.
7. Check the service history and MOT history agree with the mileage.
8. Make sure any finance is settled, and pay in a way you can trace.

Before you view: check the car online

Ask the seller for the registration and, ideally, the MOT test number. Our free car check shows the car’s make, model, colour, MOT and tax status from the registration. If any of it doesn’t match the advert, ask why before you go any further. Our MOT history check shows every past test, with its mileage, failures and advisories, and GOV.UK’s recall checker shows any safety recall that hasn’t been fixed.

Then check the car’s history. Many of the most expensive problems can’t be seen at a viewing:

• Write-offs: whether an insurer has written the car off, and in which category (Cat S, Cat N and others).
• Stolen: whether it’s recorded as stolen by the police or an insurer.
• Outstanding finance: whether a lender still owns it. If you buy it, you could lose the car.
• Mileage: whether the recorded mileage has ever gone down, a sign of clocking.
• Plate changes, imports, exports and scrapping, and whether it has been a taxi.

A Total Car Check Silver check covers write-offs, stolen records, mileage, plate changes and previous keepers. A Gold check adds outstanding finance, a valuation and an ex-taxi search. Run a full car history check before you pay, and see Silver and Gold check prices.

Questions to ask when buying a used car

Ask these before you travel to see the car. A genuine seller will answer them easily; vague or changing answers are a warning sign.

1. Why are you selling it? Buying a newer car or no longer needing a second car are common, genuine reasons.
2. How long have you owned it? Someone who has had it for only a few weeks may be trading cars, or passing on a problem.
3. Has it ever been in an accident? If so, what was damaged, who repaired it, and are there invoices?
4. Does it have a full service history? Dealer or independent garage stamps, and receipts for big jobs such as the timing belt.
5. Is there any finance outstanding on it? Then check for yourself: never rely on the answer alone.
6. Are there any faults you know about? An honest seller usually mentions small ones. “Absolutely nothing” is worth testing.
7. Has it been a taxi or private hire car? Former taxis often cover very high mileages.
8. Can I see it at the address on the logbook? Seeing it where the seller lives, in daylight, protects you if something goes wrong later.
9. Can I have it inspected? A seller who refuses an independent inspection is a seller to walk away from.

At the viewing: what to check

The paperwork

• V5C logbook: GOV.UK says it should have a “DVL” watermark. If its serial number is between BG8229501 and BG9999030, or BI2305501 and BI2800000, it may be stolen: don’t buy, and call the police when it’s safe to. The name and address should be the seller’s, and the registration, colour and engine size should match the car.
• VIN: the 17-character vehicle identification number on the car, usually on a plate in the engine bay, inside the door frame and at the base of the windscreen, must match the V5C. Our free VIN checker confirms it matches the registration. A mismatch can mean a cloned car.
• Service history and receipts: the dates and mileages should line up with the MOT history.
• Keys and manuals: ask how many keys there are. Replacing a missing one can be expensive.

The car itself

• Start it from cold. A warm engine can hide starting problems, smoke and rough running. Ask the seller not to run it before you arrive.
• Bodywork: uneven gaps between panels, paint that doesn’t quite match, or overspray on rubber seals can all mean accident repairs.
• Tyres: the legal minimum tread is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tyre. Look for even wear (uneven wear can mean alignment or suspension problems), cracks and bulges.
• Engine bay: look for leaks, and check the oil and coolant levels.
• Electrics: test the windows, mirrors, lights, wipers, heating and air conditioning, and make sure every warning light goes out once the engine starts.
• Wear that doesn’t match the mileage: a worn steering wheel, pedals or driver’s seat on a low-mileage car is a sign it may have been clocked.

The test drive

Never buy without one, and make sure you’re insured first. Citizens Advice warns that if you aren’t insured, you’re liable for any damage you cause and could get points on your licence. A dealer will usually insure you; for a private sale, check your own policy or the seller’s. Our guide on insurance for test drives explains more.

• Drive on different roads: town, country and, if you can, a dual carriageway.
• Brakes should be smooth and the car shouldn’t pull to one side.
• Listen for knocks from the suspension over bumps, and grinding or whining from the gearbox.
• The clutch should bite smoothly, and an automatic should change gear without jolting.
• Take someone with you for a second opinion.

Before you pay

• Make sure there’s no finance. If the car finance check shows finance, don’t pay the seller until the lender confirms in writing that it has been settled. Our outstanding finance guide explains how to buy safely.
• Check the price. A price well below similar cars is a classic sign of a problem. The Gold check includes a valuation.
• Pay in a way you can trace, such as a bank transfer, and get a receipt with the car, the price, the date, and the seller’s name and address. Be wary of a seller who insists on cash.
• Tax it before you drive it away. Car tax doesn’t pass to a new keeper. Our car tax check shows what the car costs to tax.
• Make sure the DVLA is told. The seller tells the DVLA the car has been sold, and you’ll get a new V5C in your name.

Red flags: when to walk away

• The seller won’t let you see the car at the address on the logbook.
• The V5C is missing, “in the post”, or doesn’t match the seller or the car.
• The VIN on the car doesn’t match the V5C, or looks tampered with.
• The price is far below what similar cars sell for.
• The seller is pushing you to decide quickly, or insists on cash.
• The seller won’t allow an inspection or a history check.
• The mileage looks low for the car’s age and wear, or the MOT history shows it going down.

If something doesn’t feel right, walk away. There will always be another car.

Buying from a dealer or a private seller

You have more legal protection buying from a dealer: under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, the car must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described, and you can reject a faulty car within 30 days. From a private seller, the car only has to be as described, and the seller must have the right to sell it. Our guide to your legal rights when buying a used car has the details.

Tips for new drivers buying a first car

• Check the insurance cost first. It can cost more than the car. Our guide to car insurance groups explains why some cars are cheaper to insure.
• Budget for running costs: tax, insurance, servicing and tyres, not just the price.
• Don’t rush. View several cars, and never feel pressured into buying on the spot.

Frequently asked questions

What should I check when buying a used car?

Check the car’s history (write-offs, stolen, finance and mileage), the V5C logbook against the seller and the car, the MOT and service history, and the car’s condition, and take a proper test drive.

What questions should I ask when buying a used car?

Why it’s being sold, how long the seller has owned it, whether it’s had an accident, whether it has a full service history, whether there’s finance outstanding, and whether there are any known faults.

What paperwork should come with a used car?

The V5C logbook, the service history and receipts, and the manuals and spare keys. The MOT history is online, so you can check it yourself.

Is a vehicle history check worth it?

Yes. For a few pounds it can reveal outstanding finance, a write-off, theft records or clocking that would cost far more if you found out after buying.

Should I buy a used car without a service history?

Be cautious. It isn’t always a dealbreaker on an older, cheaper car, but it should be reflected in the price, and the MOT history becomes even more important.

Sources and related guides

• GOV.UK: checks to make when buying a used car
• GOV.UK: check if a vehicle has been recalled
• Citizens Advice: buying a used car
• What are my legal rights when buying a used car?
• How to spot if a used car has been in an accident
• Outstanding car finance: a complete guide
• The ultimate guide to buying a used electric car

Before you buy, run a full car history check to see whether a car has been stolen, written off or still has finance owing.